WOOD CHEMICAL COMPOSITION BASICS AND TUTORIALS

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF WOOD BASIC INFORMATION
What Are The Chemical Composition Of Wood?

Wood is composed of cellulose, lignin, hemicellulose, extractives, and ash-producing minerals. Cellulose accounts for approximately 50 percent of the wood substance by weight (USDA-FS, 1999).

The exact percent is species dependent. It is a linear polymer (aliphatic carbon compound) having a high molecular weight. The main building block of cellulose is sugar: glucose.

As the tree grows, linear cellulose molecules arrange themselves into highly ordered strands, called fibrils.

These ordered strands form the large structural elements that compose the cell walls of wood fibers. Lignin accounts for 23% to 33% of softwood and 16% to 25% of hardwood by weight.

Lignin is mostly an intercellular material. Chemically, lignin is an intractable, insoluble, material that is loosely bonded to the cellulose. Lignin is basically the glue that holds the tubular cells together.

The longitudinal shear strength of wood is limited by the strength of the lignin bounds.


Hemicelluloses are polymeric units made from sugar molecules. Hemicellulose is different from cellulose in that it has several sugars tied up in its cellular structure.

Hardwood contains 20% to 30% hemicellulose and softwood averages 15% to 20%. The main sugar units in hardwood and softwood are xylose and monnose, respectively.

The extractives compose 5% to 30% of the wood substance. Included in this group are tannins and other polyphenolics, coloring matters, essential oils, fats, resins, waxes, gums, starches, and simple metabolic intermediates.

These materials can be removed with simple inert neutral solvents, such as water, alcohol, acetone, and benzene. The amount contained in an individual tree depends on the species, growth conditions, and time of year the tree is harvested.

The ash-forming materials account for 0.1% to 3.0% of the wood material and include calcium, potassium, phosphate, and silica.

REPAIRING WALL DINGS AND DENTS BASIC AND TUTORIALS

WALL DINGS AND DENTS REPAIR BASIC TUTORIALS
How To Repair Wall Dings and Dents?



You’ll need the following:
􀁑 Sanding block or sandpaper (80–100 grit and 120–150 grit)
􀁑 Utility knife
􀁑 Clean sponge or cloth

􀁑 Putty knife
􀁑 Joint compound


1. Lay newspaper or a drop cloth below the repair site to catch debris. Put on safety goggles and a dust mask when you sand to protect your eyes and lungs.

2. Using the 80–100 grit sanding block or paper, lightly sand the dent to remove little flecks of the drywall or paint that hang on the surface.





3. Gently cut away any torn pieces of the drywall that remain at the repair site with a utility knife.

4. Wipe the dent with a damp cloth or sponge to remove any bits that remain in the dent area.

5. With the putty knife, fill the dent with joint compound, and smooth the surface of the repair. Wipe off and clean the putty knife. Allow the repair to dry (usually overnight; see joint compound package directions).



6. When the repaired surface is dry, sand with the fine (150-grit) sandpaper.

If the surface looks rough or bumpy, or if any of the dents can still be seen, you’ll need another cycle of compound application/drying time/sanding. If you’re satisfied with the repair, wipe it off with a damp cloth or sponge, or vacuum the repaired area using the brush tool. You are ready to prime and repaint.

What Pros Know

When applying joint compound, your result should blend into the surrounding wall. While the recesses caused by denting and nicking should be filled, you don’t want the surrounding walls to look like a relief map of the Rockies. Aim for a finished repair that is as flush to the intact drywall surface as you can make it. Think of the compound as a thin glaze, not fluffy frosting!



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